Mera Peak and Island Peak via Amphu Laptsa

Day 01: Arrival day in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264 ft)

At the airport you will be met by our representative and transferred to the Hotel. Your kitbag containing sleeping bag, down jacket will be issued upon arrival and individual equipment/gear checks will be held during the afternoon. A pre-trek briefing will be held at evening and is a great opportunity to get acquainted with your fellow group members before heading out to dinner.

Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2800m/9184ft) & commence trekking to Puiyan (2800m/9184ft)

We will be taken to the airport for one of the great flights of the Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our flight, we will get our first views of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing. The Twin Otter aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla, which is the start of our trek to Mera. Here we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straight away for our first camp at Puiyan.

Day 05: Trek to Nashing Dingma (2600m/8528ft), 5-6 hrs walk

Today we climb the half hour or so to the Pangum La (3175m/10410ft) and our gateway toward the Hinku Valley, and now start to head eastward and then in a northerly direction. Today is a solid descent to the Hinku River of at least 900 meters depending on which path we take, and then a climb up to our camp high on the other side near the Surke La. We are once again traveling through a mix of terraced slopes containing grain crops interspersed by undisturbed forests of the upper temperate zone; maples, rhododendrons and fir.

Day 07: Trek to Chunbu Kharka (4200m/13776ft), 5-6 hrs walk

Continuing along the ridge, we climb higher and higher over knolls (lumps in the ridge) of 4000 meters and then 4500 meters. The terrain has now elevated well above the tree line and is grassy slopes and rocky outcrops and cliffs, where birds of prey may be seen flying overhead such as Griffon vulture, lammergeyer or eagles. We then descend to a camp set near a series of five lakes, Panch Pokhari, set beside the river of the Chunbu Kharka.

Day 09: Trek to Hinku valley camp (3600m/11808ft), 5-6 hrs walk

Our route now contours around many ridges on the eastern side of the Hinku, descending lower into forests of rhododendron. Near the valley floor we encounter the devastation caused by a natural damn at the head of the valley bursting in 1998. The valley has been destroyed, leaving boulders, dead trees and silt where once there were old growth forests and meadows. Our campsite is on a pleasant grassy patch, on the now much higher bank of the rocky riverbed.

Day 12: Trek to Khare (4,940m/16203ft), 3-4 hrs walk

Today we can experience an excellent valley opening out views to the north of the Hinku Nup glacier and the line of peaks beyond. Behind us is the dramatic spire of the less than romantically named 'Peak 35', which has yet to be climbed. Only the last section up to our base camp at Khare is steep and reminds us that we are gaining altitude. It's a short climb and we are there in good time for lunch.

Day 14, 5 & 16: Summit attempt on Mera (6,476m/21,247ft), 5-9 hrs walk

These three days going to plan and the weather on our side, we would move up to a rock and glaciated camp just off the Mera La saddle at approx 5400m/17712ft. Plastic mountaineering boots are usually worn from base through to the summit bid and return. Whilst they feel clumsy they are perfect for the job, providing warmth, protection and stability for the variable terrain including loose rocks, snow and ice. Another camp is set half way up the long North Slope of the mountain, at about 5700m/18696ft near a rock knob. Although it is a shorter distance here, it can be difficult in poor conditions and you are at altitude and are harder and further than it first appears. The summit bid will be made early in the morning (anywhere from 2am to 5am) from this high camp, and take around 4 to 6 hours to make the summit. Whilst the distance doesn't look far, we can assure you it will be hard work, and all the preparations and a positive, tempered attitude will pay off here. It is usually necessary to rope up for much of the summit approach due to crevasse hazards along the route. The route can vary depending on the conditions of the season but usually skirts around a major shoulder in front of us to the back side of the mountain and then traverse in a fairly straightforward approach to the summit knob. As the light comes, we enjoy incredible views across to Baruntse (7129m), Chamlang (7319m) and Nau Lekh (6360m) with Makalu (8481m) looming behind. Further to our left is Everest, peaking over several unnamed peaks of the Hinku. To the south we can see for miles down to the terrain. We aim to make the summit early/mid-morning and return to base camp after summit. The exact schedule will depend on many factors, including the weather, condition of the route and condition of the members. Our contingency of equipment and experienced staff and a time buffer, gives us a fair amount of flexibility to achieve success for all who have worked hard and consistently from the beginning of the expedition. The day will be long, and this is where all the training beforehand, the trek approach, and the right attitude will combine to give you stamina and confidence to be part of a sound team, with optimum chances for the summit.

Day 19: Rest day at Amphu Laptsa base camp

Final preparations and gear checks for our pass crossing Amphu Laptsa.

Day 22: Summit Island Peak (6,189m/20,305ft), 8-9 hrs walk

An alpine start sees us climbing steeply up the lower flanks of the south-east face. The track is well used as this is a popular peak. At times there is a bit of rock scrambling and the rocky spur takes us to a snow ramp that leads to the upper snow fields. The peaks of Makalu and Lhotse come into view as we climb higher. Upon crossing the upper nave, it is necessary to fix ropes up a short but steep ice face that leads on to the summit ridge. The summit ridge is a classic alpine ridge and quite exposed, (we fix ropes here also) and traverse our way to the summit. Although Island Peak appears dwarfed by the seven and eight thousanders surrounding it, it provides a magnificent vantage point to all the peaks south of the stupendous Lhotse face. After some exhilarating moments on the summit we descend by the same route to our base.

Day 26: Fly to Kathmandu

After an early morning flight to Kathmandu our guide transfer you to your hotel. You may have time to relax after long journey and take back your breath and rest at your hotel with ending your Himalayan trip with us. The remainder of the day is at leisure to rest, relax or explore and shop in the town.