Mt. Baruntse (7,129m), in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal is considered one of the best peaks for climbers, aiming for 7000m peak in Nepal. Crowned by four peaks and bounded by the Hunku Galcier, the Barun Glacier and the Imja Glacier in the south, east and the west respectively, this peak, boasts of a high success rate of climbing the summit and returning safely. Therefore, like Mt. Amadablam Expedition, Mt. Pumori Expedition, and Mt. Manaslu Expedition is gaining more popularity these days. The mountain, however, was first successfully climbed by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow (New Zealand), in the expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary via south ridge on May 30, 1954.
The expedition: This expedition can be attempted via two routes: i) Lukla via Mera La pass and Hunku glacier or ii) Tumlingtar along the Makalu access trek and west Barun glacier. Amigo Treks and Expedition has been organizing Mt. Baruntse Expedition from Kathmandu and Lukla flight by an approximately 11 days trekking across the Hunku Valley, amazing Sherpa villages and a beautiful alpine environment to the Baruntse Base Camp. With base camp at 5,300m, we will set up two high camps before attempting the summit. Before reaching the summit, one needs to pass through steep section of ice at 50 degrees and prominent ice cliffs at about 7000m, facing the very high risk of avalanche. About 9 days are required to successfully climb the mountain. The top greets you with a beautiful view of Lhotse south and Makalu east. The same route will be followed back to the starting point to end the expedition. Moreover, if you are also looking for the weather to support you, make plans either for spring or autumn.
Booking this expedition package with Amigo Treks and Expedition ensures the benefits of bed and breakfast in Kathmandu and full board (meal and accommodation) during the trek. During the climbing period, both meal and accommodation will be arranged in a tented camp itself. Our medically trained and government certified English speaking guides will also carry a comprehensive medical kit, a portable altitude satellite phone and walkie talkie as a safety backup through the Baruntse expedition.
Nevertheless, the trip can be customized to your requirements and needs. We guarantee 100% departure on all customized trips. Come with a partner or in a group and get special discount. Also make sure to be physically fit before the final departure for the expedition.
Day 01: Arrival and Transfer
Day 02: Preparation and Briefing for Departure to Everest Region
Day 03: Kathmandu-Lukla Scenic Flight and Acclimatization
Day 04-06: Lukla to Chutanga Trek
Day 07: Chutanga to Khartitang Trek
Day 08: Khartitang to Kothe Trek
Day 09: Kothe to Tangnang Trek
Day 10: Rest and acclimatization
Day 11: Tang Nang to Khare Trek
Day 12: Rest and acclimatization
Day 13: Khare to Mera La Pas Trek
Day 14: Mera La Pass to Seto Pokhari Trek
Day 15: Seto Pokhari Camp to Baruntse Base Camp
Day 16-24: Baruntse Summit Climbing Period
Day 25: Cleaning the Base Camp and Preparation for Return
Day 26: Seto Pokhari to Mera La Pass Trek
Day 27: Mera La Pass to Tangnang Trek
Day 28: Tangnang to Kothe Trek
Day 29: Kothe to Thuli Kharka Trek
Day 30: Thuli Kharka to Lukla Trek
Day 31: Fly Back to Kathmandu
Day 32: Transfer for Final Departure
Amigo Treks and Expedition has compiled a list of essential equipment, personal medical provisions, and summary of medical conditions likely to encounter during 8000m mountaineering expeditions to help mountaineers in preparation and provisioning for climbing or mountaineering expedition.
This list should be considered as an essential summary and expeditioners embarking on the adventure are encouraged to conduct further study and practical exercises to familiarize themselves with the equipment, medical terminology and understanding of medical conditions related to high elevation, cold, wind, excessive sun radiation as well as injuries likely to sustain in the outdoor situation and in particular high and remote mountainous areas.
Essential Personal Climbing Gear:
For under garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilises the best quality material in the world. No other company can at this stage match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breath-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm. Due to its natural nano-tube construction it has antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is climbing and trekking.
Travel and Sleeping Gear
Rucksacks and Travel Bags:
Our skilful cooks will prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in base camp, as well as in camp 2 on the mountain. This meals will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our Sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
We ask only members to bring 5 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. On summit day you will be at high elevation and you will be affected by the altitude with very limited appetite and for period so it is important to have flavours you most likely will consume.
We cannot cater for specific personal and uncommon foods and flavours. If you have any unusual, non-standard or specific personal, cultural or religious dietary requirements, which can only be satisfied with imported product, we ask you to bring your own imported daily snack and energy foods.
We do not provide “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food in Kathmandu or in home country. From our experience 3-6 kilos/6-12 pounds is a sufficient amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported brands of power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage may not be available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows sufficient time for shopping.
Miscellaneous Practical Items:
On Everest, although some climbers wish to try to summit it without supplemental oxygen, most of members would prefer to have oxygen available. We only allow members to climb Everest with the supplemental oxygen available. How much oxygen one requires is an individual decision; some people want 1 bottle, others want 12; our only requirement is that every expedition team member must have at least one oxygen bottle available for personal use, which will constitute at the minimum an emergency supply for climber to get down to at least camp 4. Our experience indicates five oxygen bottles is usually a sufficient for average climber. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 40% buy back policy on unused oxygen bottles, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition.
Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the groups sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.
Who can climb a peak?
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.
I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.
What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.
What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association authorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.
Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.
Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.
Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.
Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.
What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.
How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaks require one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.
How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.
Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?
What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.
Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.
What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.
What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.
What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.
We used Amigo Treks for our trek to EBC in Sept-Oct 2021. The planning started in Mar-April 2021 in the middle of the pandemic so