The 7th highest peak in the world and the 5th in Nepal, Mt. Dhaulagiri (8,167m), is said to be the most interesting and the most formidable peaks among the eight thousand meters. Located north west of Myagdi district of Nepal, this mound shaped mountain has 5 ridges and south and west faces, which rise 4000m from their base camp. Although the majority of the climbs are via the first ascent route, that is, the north east route, the peak can be climbed from almost every direction. It is also one of the most climbed eight thousanders in Nepal. The peak was first successfully climbed by Swiss-Australian team on 13th May 1960. The route to the summit is technically challenging, which makes it one of the most interesting peak to climb.
The Expedition: Total 48 days are required to complete the Dhaulagiri Expedition. The expedition starts with final preparation in Kathmandu. From Kathmandu, we drive to Darbang. From Darbang we trek all the way up to the Dhaulagiri Base Camp at 4700m. About 30 days are required to reach the summit. The ascent will be made via normal route that is via the Northeast Ridge. Four camps will be set before the summit at 5,900m, 6,400m, 7200m and 7500m. Steep climbing is required to reach camp 2 from camp 1, from camp 2 steep ice and snow climbing is required to get to camp 3 located towards the west. From camp 3, we head towards the eastern ridge experiencing strong wind condition, which makes this section of the summit the most difficult section before reaching camp 4. From the fourth camp, if the weather permits, we directly attempt the summit. On the way back, we only walk for two days to Jomsom and take a flight to Pokhara. From Pokhara we drive to Kathmandu.
Amigo Treks and Expedition provides complete service for you to successfully complete the expedition. The company takes the responsibility of organizing all the necessary permits and climbing documentation, travelling logistics, including domestic airfare, ground transportation porters, English speaking guides, food, accommodation and other additional individual services required by mountaineers. Your accommodation will be arranged at deluxe hotel in Kathmandu, lodges during the trek and camping during the summit. This package ensures bed and breakfast in Kathmandu and three meals plus tea/coffee during the trek and climbing. Domestic flights, private vehicles and tourist buses will be used as the means of transportation.
Spring and Autumn are the best season to plan this expedition. However, if you are looking to avoid traffic the expedition can be planned early winter as well. Moreover, other expeditions like Mt. Makalu Expedition, Manaslu Expedition and Mt. Pumori Expedition are also some of the best expedition options in Nepal.
Day 01: Pick Up from Kathmandu Airport and transfer hotel
Day 02: Official formalities, expedition preparation in Kathmandu
Day 03: Drive from Kathmandu to Darbang (920m)
Day 04: Trek from Darbang to Dharapani
Day 05: Trek from Dharapani to Muri
Day 06: Trek from Muri to Bagar
Day 07: Trek from Bagar to Doban
Day 08: Trek from Dovan to Sallaghari
Day 09: Trek from Sallaghari to Italy Base Camp
Day 10: Trek from Italy base camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4700m)
Day 11-41: Climbing Period (Summit Period to Mt. Dhaulagiri 8167m)
Day 42: Preparation to returning (Clean Base Camp)
Day 43: Trek from Dhaulagiri Base Camp to down Yak Kharka(3680m
Day 44: Trek from Yak Kharka to Jomsom(2710m)
Day 45: Fly from Jomsom to Pokhara
Day 46: Drive from Pokhara to Kathmandu by tourist mini bus that takes about seven hours
Day 47: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 48: Final departure
Amigo Treks and Expedition has compiled a list of essential equipment, personal medical provisions, and summary of medical conditions likely to encounter during 8000m mountaineering expeditions to help mountaineers in preparation and provisioning for climbing or mountaineering expedition.
This list should be considered as an essential summary and expeditioners embarking on the adventure are encouraged to conduct further study and practical exercises to familiarize themselves with the equipment, medical terminology and understanding of medical conditions related to high elevation, cold, wind, excessive sun radiation as well as injuries likely to sustain in the outdoor situation and in particular high and remote mountainous areas.
Essential Personal Climbing Gear:
For under garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilises the best quality material in the world. No other company can at this stage match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breath-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm. Due to its natural nano-tube construction it has antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is climbing and trekking.
Travel and Sleeping Gear
Rucksacks and Travel Bags:
Our skilful cooks will prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in base camp, as well as in camp 2 on the mountain. This meals will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our Sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
We ask only members to bring 5 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. On summit day you will be at high elevation and you will be affected by the altitude with very limited appetite and for period so it is important to have flavours you most likely will consume.
We cannot cater for specific personal and uncommon foods and flavours. If you have any unusual, non-standard or specific personal, cultural or religious dietary requirements, which can only be satisfied with imported product, we ask you to bring your own imported daily snack and energy foods.
We do not provide “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food in Kathmandu or in home country. From our experience 3-6 kilos/6-12 pounds is a sufficient amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported brands of power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage may not be available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows sufficient time for shopping.
Miscellaneous Practical Items:
On Everest, although some climbers wish to try to summit it without supplemental oxygen, most of members would prefer to have oxygen available. We only allow members to climb Everest with the supplemental oxygen available. How much oxygen one requires is an individual decision; some people want 1 bottle, others want 12; our only requirement is that every expedition team member must have at least one oxygen bottle available for personal use, which will constitute at the minimum an emergency supply for climber to get down to at least camp 4. Our experience indicates five oxygen bottles is usually a sufficient for average climber. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 40% buy back policy on unused oxygen bottles, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition.
Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the groups sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.
Who can climb a peak?
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.
I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.
What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.
What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association authorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.
Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.
Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.
Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.
Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.
What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.
How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaks require one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.
How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.
Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?
What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.
Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.
What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.
What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.
What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.
We used Amigo Treks for our trek to EBC in Sept-Oct 2021. The planning started in Mar-April 2021 in the middle of the pandemic so