Kanchenjunga (8,586m), located in the eastern part of Nepal, is the second-highest peak in Nepal and the third highest in the World. The name ‘Kanchenjunga’ is derived from the Tibetan words ‘Kanchen’ and ‘Dzonga’ meaning ‘The Five Treasure of the Great Snows’. Three of the main peaks; Kanchenjunga Main (8,586m), Kanchenjunga Central (8,482m), and Kanchenjunga South (8,494m) lie on the border between Nepal and North Sikkim in India, and the remaining two peaks Kanchenjunga West or Yalung Kang (8,505m) and Kangbachen (7,903) lie in the Taplejung District of Nepal. Moreover, these peaks lie inside the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area, which is also home to the Red Panda and other rare plants, animals, and birds. The most remote of all 8000m peaks in Nepal, Kanchenjunga, was first climbed on May 25, 1955, by Joe Brown and George Band of the British expedition team.
The Expedition: Typically 54 days are required to complete the Kanchenjunga Expedition, in which 32 days are set aside to climb the peak. Kanchenjunga Expedition starts with a flight from Kathmandu to Biratnagar (Suketar). There are two base camps options to climb Kanchenjunga: Kanchenjunga North Base Camp on Kanchenjunga Glacier and South Base Camp on Yalung Glacier – both accessible from Suketar. From Suketar, we walk up to the north base camp (not the easiest but the safest route); enjoying the remoteness of the area that has successfully retained its pristine beauty, mystery, and charm; the settlement of the people and the very rare endemic flora with 30 varieties of rhododendrons and 69 varieties of orchids. It takes about 11 days to reach the base camp.
The climb begins through the narrow ice ridge and technical and intricate mixed rock and ice climb to the North Col- about 500m from the base camp. 900m bee-line is also fixed to and from the North Col. From the North Col the climb is along the ridge and north face. Three camps will be set up before ascending the summit. The hike is entirely on snow, glacier, icefall, and rock towards the summit. Starting base camp, the views are stunning till the summit. After completing the climb, we trek back to Suketar (Biratnagar) to take a flight to Kathmandu.
Planning the Kanchenjunga expedition with Amigo Treks and Expedition allows you to enjoy full service: necessary permits, climbing documents, traveling logistics (airfare, ground shuttle, and porters), English speaking Sherpas and guides, and other requirements of mountaineers. The company also organizes professional logistics for the provision of all required accommodation and food up till the base camp. This package ensures bed and breakfast in Kathmandu and three freshly cooked meals and hot/cold drinks during the trek and the climb. Moreover, we provide expedition quality personal tents both with full board or base-camp service only, a comprehensive First Aid kit, satellite phone, and solar panel to charge your phone.
Late spring and autumn are the best time to plan this expedition. Physical fitness and climbing training are required to successfully achieve the summit. Amigo Treks and Expedition ensures personalized and professional service, flat rate, and special group discount not only for this expedition but also for other best expeditions like Pumori Expedition, Ama Dablam Expedition, and even Mt. Everest Expedition.
Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu Airport and transfer to Hotel(1350m)
Day 02-03: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing
Day 04: Fly from Kathamndu to Biratnagar( Suketar) (2300m)
Day 05: Trek from Suketar to Phurumbu (921m )
Day 06: Trek from Phurumbu to Chirwa(1270m)
Day 07: Trek from Chirwa to Sekarthum(1660m)
Day 08: Trek from Sekarthum to Amji-Lhasa(2510m)
Day 09: Trek from Amje Lhasa to Gyabla(3450m)
Day 10: Trek from Gyabla to Ghunsa(3595m)
Day 11: Trek from Ghunsa to KhamBachen(4095m)
Day 12: Rest day in Khambachen for acclimatization
Day 13: Trek from Khambachen to Lonak(4785m)
Day 14: Trek from Lonak to Pangpema(5100m)
Day 15: Pangpema (5100m)Base camp Established and necessary Preparation
Day 16-45: Climbing Period. (summit period for Kanchenjunga 8586m)
Day 46: Preparation to returning (Cleaning up Base Camp)
Day 47: Trek from Kanchenjunga Base Camp to Lonak(4785m)
Day 48: Trek from Lonak to Khambachen(4095m)
Day 49: Trek from Khambachen to Ghunsa,(3595m)
Day 50: Trek from Ghunsa to Sekarthum(1660m)
Day 52: Trek from Sekarthem to Chirwa(1270m)
Day 53: Trek from Chirwa to suketar(2310m)
Day 54: Fly from Biratnagar to Kathmandu (1350m)
Day 55: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 56: Final Departure
Amigo Treks and Expedition has compiled a list of essential equipment, personal medical provisions, and summary of medical conditions likely to encounter during 8000m mountaineering expeditions to help mountaineers in preparation and provisioning for climbing or mountaineering expedition.
This list should be considered as an essential summary and expeditioners embarking on the adventure are encouraged to conduct further study and practical exercises to familiarize themselves with the equipment, medical terminology and understanding of medical conditions related to high elevation, cold, wind, excessive sun radiation as well as injuries likely to sustain in the outdoor situation and in particular high and remote mountainous areas.
Essential Personal Climbing Gear:
For under garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilises the best quality material in the world. No other company can at this stage match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breath-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm. Due to its natural nano-tube construction it has antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is climbing and trekking.
Travel and Sleeping Gear
Rucksacks and Travel Bags:
Our skilful cooks will prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in base camp, as well as in camp 2 on the mountain. This meals will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our Sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
We ask only members to bring 5 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. On summit day you will be at high elevation and you will be affected by the altitude with very limited appetite and for period so it is important to have flavours you most likely will consume.
We cannot cater for specific personal and uncommon foods and flavours. If you have any unusual, non-standard or specific personal, cultural or religious dietary requirements, which can only be satisfied with imported product, we ask you to bring your own imported daily snack and energy foods.
We do not provide “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food in Kathmandu or in home country. From our experience 3-6 kilos/6-12 pounds is a sufficient amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported brands of power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage may not be available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows sufficient time for shopping.
Miscellaneous Practical Items:
On Everest, although some climbers wish to try to summit it without supplemental oxygen, most of members would prefer to have oxygen available. We only allow members to climb Everest with the supplemental oxygen available. How much oxygen one requires is an individual decision; some people want 1 bottle, others want 12; our only requirement is that every expedition team member must have at least one oxygen bottle available for personal use, which will constitute at the minimum an emergency supply for climber to get down to at least camp 4. Our experience indicates five oxygen bottles is usually a sufficient for average climber. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 40% buy back policy on unused oxygen bottles, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition.
Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the groups sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.
Who can climb a peak?
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.
I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.
What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.
What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association authorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.
Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.
Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.
Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.
Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.
What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.
How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaks require one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.
How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.
Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?
What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.
Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.
What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.
What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.
What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.
We used Amigo Treks for our trek to EBC in Sept-Oct 2021. The planning started in Mar-April 2021 in the middle of the pandemic so