Amadablam Expedition

   30 Days    Trip Id ( 001-A-134)

Ama Dablam, standing tall at 6,812m, is an incredibly beautiful mountain that dominates the skyline above the world-renowned Everest Base Camp trail. Its name originates from the Sherpa language, where "Ama" means mother and "Dablam" refers to the sacred ornament box that Sherpa women wear. The glacier on the mountain's southwest face appears like a precious jewel box suspended from the mountain's neck, earning it the nickname "The Mother's Jewel Box." The first attempt to climb Ama Dablam was made on March 13, 1961, by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (NZ), and since then, the mountain has continued to captivate mountaineers from around the world.

Embarking on an Ama Dablam expedition is an exciting 30-day adventure in the Everest region of Nepal. The expedition includes a 16-day climb to the three high camps set above the base camp and summit, with the other days spent trekking through the picturesque Khumbu valley below Tengboche. The expedition starts with a scenic flight to Lukla, and from there, following the Everest base camp trail, we hike up to Tengboche. We then leave the Everest base camp trail and head towards the Ama Dablam base camp.

The climb up the southwest ridge is technically challenging, requiring you to pass through tough saddle ridges, rocky ground, and boulders until the first camp. You then navigate severe rocky bowls and ridges through the fixed line up to the second camp and steep mixed alleyways of rock, ice, and snow, sloping snow ground, steep snow and ice tunnels, and the path along the snow ridge up to the third camp.

From the third camp to the summit, you embark on a steep climb on snow and ice along the huge hanging glacier. The summit offers an incredible panoramic view of Mount Everest, Island peak, Makalu, the Khumbu Himalayas, and other surrounding snow-capped peaks. Once you successfully climb the mountain, you follow the same route back down to Lukla, where you take a flight back to Kathmandu.

During the expedition, accommodation and meals are provided in a hotel in Kathmandu and lodges along the trekking route from Lukla to Tengboche, with full-board meals and accommodation in tented camps during the climb. You will be guided by experienced and certified climbing and trekking guides and crew members throughout the expedition.

In addition to the Ama Dablam expedition, you can also enjoy the diverse flora and fauna of Sagarmatha National Park, the captivating landscape, mesmerizing scenery, and the rich culture, traditions, and warm hospitality of the Sherpa people residing in the Khumbu region. The best times to plan this expedition are during the Spring (April-May) and Autumn (September-October), while early winter is a good option for those seeking to avoid traffic.

Moreover, if you are looking for an expedition away from the Khumbu  Amigo Treks and Expedition can make some of the best arrangements for  Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, or even the Kanchenjunga expedition.


Cost Include

  • Arrival and departure transfers by private car
  • Accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast (5* standard)
  • Welcome and farewell dinner in Kathmandu
  • One-day guided city tour in Kathmandu Valley
  • Kathmandu to Lukla and return air tickets
  • All meals (Lunch/Dinner/Breakfast) during the trek
  • Accommodation (Lodge/Guest House) while on a trek
  • Trekking Permits and TIMS permit for the trek
  • 1:1 Guide
  • Required porters  to carry luggage and other essential supplies
  • Special climbing permits and their procedure
  • Garbage deposit fees
  • All wages, equipment, medical and accidental Insurance for all involved staff during the trip
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staff.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication with company staff and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period.
  • Gamow Bags/Oxygen

Excludes

  • Nepal arrival visa fees
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Monument entrance fees while on the Kathmandu tour only
  • All snacks, energy drinks, mineral water, cigarettes, packed food
  • Personal nature items, Laundry Expenses, Tips
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees or Trekking Gears
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests, and Hospitalization expenses
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Personal climbing gears

Outline Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel (1340m)
Day 02: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing
Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla(2840m) and trek to Phakding (2800m approx 4 hrs walk)
Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m approx 6hrs walk)
Day 05: Namche Bazaar rest day for acclimatization
Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche(3860m approx 5 hrs walk)and visit the monastery
Day 07: Trek from Tyangboche to Ama Dablam Base camp (4400m Approx 4 hrs walk)
Day 08: Base Camp preparation rest day
Day 09-25: Climbing period (summit Ama Dablam 6,812m)
Day 26: Trek from Ama Dablam base camp to Tengboche(3860M approx 6 hrs walk)
Day 27: Trek from Tengboche to Monju (2800m approx 07 hrs walk)
Day 28: Trek from Manju to Lukla(2840m approx 5 hrs walk)
Day 29: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 30: Final Departure

Personal Climbing Equipments

Amigo Treks and Expedition has compiled a list of essential equipment, personal medical provisions, and summary of medical conditions likely to encounter during 8000m mountaineering expeditions to help mountaineers in preparation and provisioning for climbing or mountaineering expedition.

This list should be considered as an essential summary and expeditioners embarking on the adventure are encouraged to conduct further study and practical exercises to familiarize themselves with the equipment, medical terminology and understanding of medical conditions related to high elevation, cold, wind, excessive sun radiation as well as injuries likely to sustain in the outdoor situation and in particular high and remote mountainous areas.

Essential Personal Climbing Gear:

  • Alpine Climbing Harness: Alpine Climbing Harness should be light and simple in design, easy to put on and take off with gloves on, with positively foolproof locking features.
  • Crampons: Crampons must fit boots perfectly; steel crampons with anti-balling and ability to toe point positively and safely into ice.
  • Ice axe: Ice axe should be versatile light general purpose ice climbing axe not too aggressive.
  • Ascender: Ascender or Jamar, a mechanical device used for ascending on a rope; must be suitable to be used with gloves or mittens.
  • Multi-LED Head Lamp: Multi-LED Head Lamp and spare batteries are essential items, we do not recommend single bulb lights due to its low reliability and a single point of failure.
  • Karabiners: Minimum 2 locking carabineers, 1 large and 1 small and 4 regular.
  • Rappel device: Figure 8, ACT or similar; be familiar with Munter Hitch as it may safe your life if you loose your Rappel device and you will at some stage
  • Ski poles: Very handy for the approach; adjustable types are the best and are recommended type
  • Slings: One 3m (10ft) and three 2m (6ft).
  • Masks, hoses, and regulators: Good quality for your safety.
  • Altimeter :
  • Climbing helmet: Climbing helmet is essential safety gear for crossing areas under rocks and ice cliffs; light weight is an essential feature

Clothing

For under garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilises the best quality material in the world. No other company can at this stage match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breath-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm. Due to its natural nano-tube construction it has antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is climbing and trekking.

Upper Body:

  • One T-shirt Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200.
  • Two long Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 shirts.
  • One polar fleece pullovers, medium weight.
  • One polar fleece jacket.
  • One Gore-Tex waterproof and breathable jacket with large hood to accommodate climbing helmet.
  • Lightweight down jacket for chilly days in base camp or warm layer when stopping for short breaks.
  • One very warm goose-down (duvet) jacket with hood or a down/duvet suit if you prefer, for high altitude use.
  • Note: Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.

Hands:

  • One pair lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but not inside your mitts
  • One pair mittens, consists of 1 Goretex over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner

Heads:

  • Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears
  • Balaclava
  • Scarf or neck sleeve
  • Face mask
  • Ball cap or brimmed sun cap
  • Glacier Sunglass with side shields
  • One pair ski goggles (optional with light and dark lens)
  • Bandana or head scarf, useful for dusty conditions

Lower Body:

  • Icebreaker Merino 150 underwear briefs
  • One pair walking shorts
  • One pair walking trousers for trekking and around camp
  • Two pair Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 thermal bottoms
  • One pair Icebreaker Merino 200 weight thermal bottoms
  • One pair polar fleece trousers
  • One pair Gore-Tex trousers or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips
  • One pair of Goose-down (duvet) trousers or bibs. You may prefer a down (duvet)
  • Note: Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.

Feet:

  • One pair One-Sport Millet Everest Overboots or equivalent (with Aveolite liners; good quality plastic shells with inner boots; avoid tight fit with heavy socks.)
  • One pair sturdy leather or synthetic (Gortex) hiking boots with good ankle support for the walk to advanced base camp
  • One pair cross-trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp
  • One pair down booties (optional)
  • Two pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
  • Two Pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool
  • Vapour barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags
  • Two pair lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool
  • Light Icebreaker Merino wool or cotton socks for in town.

Travel and Sleeping Gear

Rucksacks and Travel Bags:

  • One medium rucksack (50-70 litters / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used for airplane carry).
  • Two large (120 L / 7500 cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment. Must be durable for use on pack animals.
  • Small padlocks for duffel kit bags.

Sleeping Gear:

  • For high altitude, one down (duvet) sleeping bag (rated to –35 C (-30 F). In the high camp, you can sleep in your down (duvet) clothing inside your sleeping bag;.
  • For base camp, one additional sleeping bag (good to -20 C (-5 F).
  • At least 3 closed cell foam mats for use in base camp and high altitude, which can be purchased in Kathmandu inexpensively; we do not recommend inflatable mats due to high probability of accidental puncture.
  • Note: Your sleeping bags should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags

Medical

Personal Hygiene:

  • Personal hygiene supplies;
  • Two tubes lip sun cream, 1 large tube skin sun cream (min. factor 30);
  • Anti-mosquito cream;
  • One toothpaste/brush set;
  • One bar soap or hand sanitizer gel/1 small synthetic towel;
  • Hand wipes.

Medical Supplies:

  • Note: Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc. The leaders will have extensive first-aid kits,
  • Personal prescription medications. Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb.
  • One skin blister repair kit.
  • medications are inexpensive and readily available in Kathmandu with no doctor's prescription;.
  • One small bottle of anti-diarrhea pills (Imodium).
  • One small bottle of anti-headache pills.
  • One small bottle cough and/or cold medicine.
  • One course antibiotics for stomach infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor's prescription.
  • One course antibiotics for chest infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor's prescription.
  • One small bottle anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide. For more about this medication, please contact us.
  • Do not bring sleeping pills. They are a respiratory depressant non compatible with high altitude physiology.
  • One small bottle of water purification tablets or water filter.
  • Earplugs.
  • Extra prescription glasses/contact lens. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency.

Personal Food

Our skilful cooks will prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in base camp, as well as in camp 2 on the mountain. This meals will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our Sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.

We ask only members to bring 5 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. On summit day you will be at high elevation and you will be affected by the altitude with very limited appetite and for period so it is important to have flavours you most likely will consume.

We cannot cater for specific personal and uncommon foods and flavours. If you have any unusual, non-standard or specific personal, cultural or religious dietary requirements, which can only be satisfied with imported product, we ask you to bring your own imported daily snack and energy foods.

We do not provide “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food in Kathmandu or in home country. From our experience 3-6 kilos/6-12 pounds is a sufficient amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported brands of power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage may not be available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows sufficient time for shopping.

Miscellaneous Practical Items:

  • 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit;
  • 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box matches;
  • 1 compass or GPS;
  • 1 battery powered alarm clock/watch;
  • 1 digital camera with extra cards and extra batteries;
  • Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are also useful;
  • 3 Water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle)
  • 1 plastic cup and spoon;
  • 1 small folding knife;
  • Binoculars (optional);
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks;
  • Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary;
  • Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance;
  • dollars, pounds or euros cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport, Tibet visa, for paying for restaurants and hotels, for gratuities, snacks, and to purchase your own drinks and gifts;
  • Credit cards, Bank/ATM/Cash machine cards for use for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards), traveler's checks, etc.
  • 1 bathing suit/swimming costume (you never know);
  • Base camp entertainment. It is good to bring additional items which you have found to be useful on previous expeditions. For example: paperback books, playing cards, ipod mp3 player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical instruments, ear plugs, lots of batteries, etc.;
  • travel clothes for base camp and in town;
  • Please be sure and bring your patience and try to keep an open, relaxed, positive and friendly attitude as travelling in this part of the world may be very different than what you are used to, but things always seem to fall into place at the last moment.
  • Note: This is not an exhaustive list. Please submit other equipment concerns and suggestions.

Oxygen

On Everest, although some climbers wish to try to summit it without supplemental oxygen, most of members would prefer to have oxygen available. We only allow members to climb Everest with the supplemental oxygen available. How much oxygen one requires is an individual decision; some people want 1 bottle, others want 12; our only requirement is that every expedition team member must have at least one oxygen bottle available for personal use, which will constitute at the minimum an emergency supply for climber to get down to at least camp 4. Our experience indicates five oxygen bottles is usually a sufficient for average climber. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 40% buy back policy on unused oxygen bottles, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition.
 

Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the groups sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.

 

How much does it cost to do the Ama Dablam expedition?

The cost of an Ama Dablam expedition can vary depending on a number of factors, such as the duration of the trip, the level of support provided by the expedition company, the size of the climbing team, and the level of experience and expertise of the climbing team members.

Generally, the cost of an Ama Dablam expedition can range from around $7,000 to $12,000 USD per person. This cost typically includes services such as permits, transportation, accommodations, meals, climbing equipment, and the support of experienced climbing guides and sherpas.

It's important to note that the cost of the expedition is not the only expense to consider. You will also need to budget for additional costs such as airfare to Nepal, visas, travel insurance, vaccinations, personal gear, and any additional expenses you may incur while in Nepal.

Mount Everest is generally considered to be a more technically challenging and physically demanding climb than Ama Dablam. This is because Everest is the tallest mountain in the world and requires climbers to endure extreme altitude and weather conditions, as well as navigate complex terrains such as the Khumbu Icefall and the Hillary Step.

While Ama Dablam is not as tall as Everest, it is still a challenging climb that requires technical climbing skills and experience. The mountain features steep rock and ice sections, as well as a prominent and exposed ridge near the summit that requires careful navigation. The altitude on Ama Dablam is also significant, with the summit reaching 6,812 meters (22,349 feet), which can present significant physical challenges.

In summary, while both mountains are challenging in their own ways, Everest is generally considered to be a more difficult and demanding climb than Ama Dablam.

Is Ama Dablam easy to climb?

No, Ama Dablam is not an easy mountain to climb. Ama Dablam is a technically demanding mountain that requires climbers to have advanced climbing skills and experience. The climb involves a combination of steep rock, ice, and snow sections, as well as exposed ridges and difficult route-finding challenges.

Climbers attempting Ama Dablam must be comfortable with high altitudes and be able to manage the physical and mental demands of climbing at extreme elevations. They must also be able to work well as part of a team and have a good understanding of mountaineering safety and rescue techniques.

Overall, climbing Ama Dablam is considered a challenging and rewarding experience for experienced mountaineers, but it is not a suitable mountain for beginners or those without significant climbing experience.

How long does it take to climb Ama Dablam?

The duration of climbing Ama Dablam is subject to various factors such as the climber's experience level, the chosen route, weather conditions, and team support. Typically, the climb takes about 30 days from the time of arrival in Nepal until completion.

Here's a rough breakdown of the time required for each stage of the climb:

  • Trekking to base camp: 8–9 days
  • Establishing higher camps and acclimatization: 8-10 days
  • Summit push and descent: 2–5 days

Climbers should anticipate spending at least four weeks on the mountain, but flexibility is crucial since weather conditions and other factors can influence the climb's duration. It's also essential to note that some climbing teams may choose to spend more time on the mountain to allow for additional acclimatization or adjust their plans according to changing conditions.

What experience do you need for Ama Dablam?

Ama Dablam is a technically demanding mountain that requires climbers to have significant mountaineering experience and advanced climbing skills. Some of the skills and experience that are typically recommended for climbers attempting Ama Dablam include:

High-altitude climbing experience: climbers should have experience climbing at high altitudes and be familiar with the effects of altitude on the body.

Technical climbing skills: climbers should have advanced technical climbing skills, including experience with rock climbing, ice climbing, and mixed climbing.

Glacier travel and crevasse rescue: climbers should be experienced in glacier travel techniques and crevasse rescue techniques.

Rope skills: climbers should be comfortable with rope handling techniques, including belaying, rappelling, and ascending fixed ropes.

Expedition experience: climbers should have experience on multi-day mountaineering expeditions, preferably at high altitudes.

Physical fitness: climbers should be in excellent physical condition, with a strong cardiovascular system and good muscular endurance.

Mental toughness: climbers should be mentally prepared to deal with the physical and mental challenges of climbing at high altitudes, including cold temperatures, challenging terrain, and exposure to heights.

Can you climb Ama Dablam without a guide?

To climb Ama Dablam, a permit from the Department of Tourism is necessary, and it's only possible through a registered expedition company. 

While it's technically possible to climb the mountain without a guide, it's not advisable for most climbers. Ama Dablam is a technically demanding peak that requires advanced climbing skills, extensive experience, and knowledge of mountaineering safety and rescue techniques. 

Moreover, the complex terrain and challenging route-finding require local expertise and familiarity with the region.

For a safe and successful climb, most climbers should hire a qualified and experienced guide who can offer advanced technical climbing skills and assistance throughout the expedition. 

Moreover, the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) mandates that climbers attempting peaks above 6,500 meters in Nepal must be accompanied by a licensed guide on commercial expeditions.

Therefore, while some experienced climbers may consider climbing Ama Dablam without a guide, it's not advisable for most, and it's mandatory to register through a licensed expedition company and obtain a permit from the Department of Tourism.

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What Client Say

a fantastic trip. Beautiful, fascinating, great food

With 3 friends we trek up the Tsum Valley supported by our guide Dawa and porters Shambu and Anil… a fantastic trip. Beautiful, fascinating,

Fiona L

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