Ama Dablam, standing tall at 6,812m, is an incredibly beautiful mountain that dominates the skyline above the world-renowned Everest Base Camp trail. Its name originates from the Sherpa language, where "Ama" means mother and "Dablam" refers to the sacred ornament box that Sherpa women wear. The glacier on the mountain's southwest face appears like a precious jewel box suspended from the mountain's neck, earning it the nickname "The Mother's Jewel Box." The first attempt to climb Ama Dablam was made on March 13, 1961, by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (NZ), and since then, the mountain has continued to captivate mountaineers from around the world.
Embarking on an Ama Dablam expedition is an exciting 30-day adventure in the Everest region of Nepal. The expedition includes a 16-day climb to the three high camps set above the base camp and summit, with the other days spent trekking through the picturesque Khumbu valley below Tengboche. The expedition starts with a scenic flight to Lukla, and from there, following the Everest base camp trail, we hike up to Tengboche. We then leave the Everest base camp trail and head towards the Ama Dablam base camp.
The climb up the southwest ridge is technically challenging, requiring you to pass through tough saddle ridges, rocky ground, and boulders until the first camp. You then navigate severe rocky bowls and ridges through the fixed line up to the second camp and steep mixed alleyways of rock, ice, and snow, sloping snow ground, steep snow and ice tunnels, and the path along the snow ridge up to the third camp.
From the third camp to the summit, you embark on a steep climb on snow and ice along the huge hanging glacier. The summit offers an incredible panoramic view of Mount Everest, Island peak, Makalu, the Khumbu Himalayas, and other surrounding snow-capped peaks. Once you successfully climb the mountain, you follow the same route back down to Lukla, where you take a flight back to Kathmandu.
During the expedition, accommodation and meals are provided in a hotel in Kathmandu and lodges along the trekking route from Lukla to Tengboche, with full-board meals and accommodation in tented camps during the climb. You will be guided by experienced and certified climbing and trekking guides and crew members throughout the expedition.
In addition to the Ama Dablam expedition, you can also enjoy the diverse flora and fauna of Sagarmatha National Park, the captivating landscape, mesmerizing scenery, and the rich culture, traditions, and warm hospitality of the Sherpa people residing in the Khumbu region. The best times to plan this expedition are during the Spring (April-May) and Autumn (September-October), while early winter is a good option for those seeking to avoid traffic.
Moreover, if you are looking for an expedition away from the Khumbu Amigo Treks and Expedition can make some of the best arrangements for Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, or even the Kanchenjunga expedition.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel (1340m)
Day 02: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing
Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla(2840m) and trek to Phakding (2800m approx 4 hrs walk)
Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m approx 6hrs walk)
Day 05: Namche Bazaar rest day for acclimatization
Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche(3860m approx 5 hrs walk)and visit the monastery
Day 07: Trek from Tyangboche to Ama Dablam Base camp (4400m Approx 4 hrs walk)
Day 08: Base Camp preparation rest day
Day 09-25: Climbing period (summit Ama Dablam 6,812m)
Day 26: Trek from Ama Dablam base camp to Tengboche(3860M approx 6 hrs walk)
Day 27: Trek from Tengboche to Monju (2800m approx 07 hrs walk)
Day 28: Trek from Manju to Lukla(2840m approx 5 hrs walk)
Day 29: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 30: Final Departure
Amigo Treks and Expedition has compiled a list of essential equipment, personal medical provisions, and summary of medical conditions likely to encounter during 8000m mountaineering expeditions to help mountaineers in preparation and provisioning for climbing or mountaineering expedition.
This list should be considered as an essential summary and expeditioners embarking on the adventure are encouraged to conduct further study and practical exercises to familiarize themselves with the equipment, medical terminology and understanding of medical conditions related to high elevation, cold, wind, excessive sun radiation as well as injuries likely to sustain in the outdoor situation and in particular high and remote mountainous areas.
Essential Personal Climbing Gear:
For under garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilises the best quality material in the world. No other company can at this stage match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breath-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm. Due to its natural nano-tube construction it has antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is climbing and trekking.
Travel and Sleeping Gear
Rucksacks and Travel Bags:
Our skilful cooks will prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in base camp, as well as in camp 2 on the mountain. This meals will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our Sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
We ask only members to bring 5 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. On summit day you will be at high elevation and you will be affected by the altitude with very limited appetite and for period so it is important to have flavours you most likely will consume.
We cannot cater for specific personal and uncommon foods and flavours. If you have any unusual, non-standard or specific personal, cultural or religious dietary requirements, which can only be satisfied with imported product, we ask you to bring your own imported daily snack and energy foods.
We do not provide “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food in Kathmandu or in home country. From our experience 3-6 kilos/6-12 pounds is a sufficient amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported brands of power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage may not be available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows sufficient time for shopping.
Miscellaneous Practical Items:
On Everest, although some climbers wish to try to summit it without supplemental oxygen, most of members would prefer to have oxygen available. We only allow members to climb Everest with the supplemental oxygen available. How much oxygen one requires is an individual decision; some people want 1 bottle, others want 12; our only requirement is that every expedition team member must have at least one oxygen bottle available for personal use, which will constitute at the minimum an emergency supply for climber to get down to at least camp 4. Our experience indicates five oxygen bottles is usually a sufficient for average climber. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 40% buy back policy on unused oxygen bottles, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition.
Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the groups sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.
The cost of an Ama Dablam expedition can vary depending on a number of factors, such as the duration of the trip, the level of support provided by the expedition company, the size of the climbing team, and the level of experience and expertise of the climbing team members.
Generally, the cost of an Ama Dablam expedition can range from around $7,000 to $12,000 USD per person. This cost typically includes services such as permits, transportation, accommodations, meals, climbing equipment, and the support of experienced climbing guides and sherpas.
It's important to note that the cost of the expedition is not the only expense to consider. You will also need to budget for additional costs such as airfare to Nepal, visas, travel insurance, vaccinations, personal gear, and any additional expenses you may incur while in Nepal.
Mount Everest is generally considered to be a more technically challenging and physically demanding climb than Ama Dablam. This is because Everest is the tallest mountain in the world and requires climbers to endure extreme altitude and weather conditions, as well as navigate complex terrains such as the Khumbu Icefall and the Hillary Step.
While Ama Dablam is not as tall as Everest, it is still a challenging climb that requires technical climbing skills and experience. The mountain features steep rock and ice sections, as well as a prominent and exposed ridge near the summit that requires careful navigation. The altitude on Ama Dablam is also significant, with the summit reaching 6,812 meters (22,349 feet), which can present significant physical challenges.
In summary, while both mountains are challenging in their own ways, Everest is generally considered to be a more difficult and demanding climb than Ama Dablam.
No, Ama Dablam is not an easy mountain to climb. Ama Dablam is a technically demanding mountain that requires climbers to have advanced climbing skills and experience. The climb involves a combination of steep rock, ice, and snow sections, as well as exposed ridges and difficult route-finding challenges.
Climbers attempting Ama Dablam must be comfortable with high altitudes and be able to manage the physical and mental demands of climbing at extreme elevations. They must also be able to work well as part of a team and have a good understanding of mountaineering safety and rescue techniques.
Overall, climbing Ama Dablam is considered a challenging and rewarding experience for experienced mountaineers, but it is not a suitable mountain for beginners or those without significant climbing experience.
The duration of climbing Ama Dablam is subject to various factors such as the climber's experience level, the chosen route, weather conditions, and team support. Typically, the climb takes about 30 days from the time of arrival in Nepal until completion.
Here's a rough breakdown of the time required for each stage of the climb:
Climbers should anticipate spending at least four weeks on the mountain, but flexibility is crucial since weather conditions and other factors can influence the climb's duration. It's also essential to note that some climbing teams may choose to spend more time on the mountain to allow for additional acclimatization or adjust their plans according to changing conditions.
Ama Dablam is a technically demanding mountain that requires climbers to have significant mountaineering experience and advanced climbing skills. Some of the skills and experience that are typically recommended for climbers attempting Ama Dablam include:
High-altitude climbing experience: climbers should have experience climbing at high altitudes and be familiar with the effects of altitude on the body.
Technical climbing skills: climbers should have advanced technical climbing skills, including experience with rock climbing, ice climbing, and mixed climbing.
Glacier travel and crevasse rescue: climbers should be experienced in glacier travel techniques and crevasse rescue techniques.
Rope skills: climbers should be comfortable with rope handling techniques, including belaying, rappelling, and ascending fixed ropes.
Expedition experience: climbers should have experience on multi-day mountaineering expeditions, preferably at high altitudes.
Physical fitness: climbers should be in excellent physical condition, with a strong cardiovascular system and good muscular endurance.
Mental toughness: climbers should be mentally prepared to deal with the physical and mental challenges of climbing at high altitudes, including cold temperatures, challenging terrain, and exposure to heights.
To climb Ama Dablam, a permit from the Department of Tourism is necessary, and it's only possible through a registered expedition company.
While it's technically possible to climb the mountain without a guide, it's not advisable for most climbers. Ama Dablam is a technically demanding peak that requires advanced climbing skills, extensive experience, and knowledge of mountaineering safety and rescue techniques.
Moreover, the complex terrain and challenging route-finding require local expertise and familiarity with the region.
For a safe and successful climb, most climbers should hire a qualified and experienced guide who can offer advanced technical climbing skills and assistance throughout the expedition.
Moreover, the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) mandates that climbers attempting peaks above 6,500 meters in Nepal must be accompanied by a licensed guide on commercial expeditions.
Therefore, while some experienced climbers may consider climbing Ama Dablam without a guide, it's not advisable for most, and it's mandatory to register through a licensed expedition company and obtain a permit from the Department of Tourism.
With 3 friends we trek up the Tsum Valley supported by our guide Dawa and porters Shambu and Anil… a fantastic trip. Beautiful, fascinating,