The eighth-highest mountain in the world, Manaslu (8,163m), also famous as Kuang, is one of the most challenging eight-thousanders (due to the presence of deep pitches and knife-edged ridges) in the world to climb. Beautifully located in the west-central part of Nepal in the Gorkha massif, Manaslu is also the highest peak in the Lamjung district of Nepal. This “Mountain of Spirit” as per the Sanskrit word ‘Manasa’ (the name Manaslu is derived from this word), was first climbed by the members of the Japanese Expedition: Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu on May 9, 1956.
The Manaslu Expedition: is a 40-day expedition, with 20 days set aside for climbing. The journey from Kathmandu to Soti Khola begins with a drive. The elevation gradually rises to 4,750m in just a few days (the Manaslu base camp). The trekking route begins in the village of Soti Khola and continues through beautiful villages, terrace farms, narrow gorges, rhododendron forests, and local pastures before entering the Tibetan-influenced higher alpine country.
The base camp is located on the Manaslu Glacier's lateral moraine. Many routes lead to Manaslu; however, we will take the standard route (up the Northeast face), which was used by the Japanese expedition team in 1956. Above the base camp, three high camps will be established: C1 (5,500m), C2 (6,300m), and C3 (7,300m). The ascent from base camp to the summit is simple, requiring only the crossing of glaciers, crevasses, seracs, and steep snow steps. In addition, after reaching the third high camp and ascending the final pyramid slope, you must cross three separate tiered plateaus.
After passing through these plateaus, we climb the steep slope to the summit. The summit greets you with a sense of accomplishment as well as a heavenly view.
Planning your expedition with Amigo Treks and Expedition now allows you to enjoy a hassle-free expedition. The company will make all necessary arrangements, including permits, climbing documents, travel logistics: airfares, ground transportation, and porter; food (3 meals per day and 24 hours of hot and cold drinks); and accommodation (full board during the trek and climb and bed and breakfast in Kathmandu). Furthermore, we provide expedition-quality tents, dining tents, kitchen tents, toilet facilities, portable shower facilities, and tent accommodations for our staff. We provide internet access, a satellite phone, and a solar panel to charge your batteries.
Late spring and autumn are the best seasons to attempt this mountain. Bring a group and enjoy a special group discount. This standard package can be customized to your requirements. Moreover, this expedition also allows you to enjoy the beautiful landscape, culture, religion, and lifestyle of people in the west-central part of Nepal, which is a feast for your eyes. However, we also provide specialized service if you are interested in our other expedition packages like the Pumori Expedition, the Everest Expedition, or even the Annapurna Expedition
Manaslu Expedition Route:
At an elevation of 4800m/15,750ft, Manaslu base camp is situated on a rocky moraine that offers awe-inspiring views of the Himalayas. Amigo Treks & Expedition will establish a base camp that will serve as a home away from home for almost 35 days for expedition climbers on an 8000m expedition. Within walking distance of meeting points with other groups and strategic viewing points of the Manaslu massif, we provide a personal tent, a dining tent, a common area, a shower tent, and a toilet tent. Upon arrival, the base camp will have already been set up, and hot beverages and snacks will be available. Base camp personnel and high-altitude climbing Sherpas will be present, and a traditional Puja ceremony for good luck will take place before the climbing period.
Camp 1, situated at an elevation of 5700m/18,700ft, is accessible after receiving basic and advanced training from your climbing Sherpa guide. You'll encounter mixed terrain on the glacier, including crevasses and short ice sections, as you pass through grassy slopes, rock slabs, and moraine. For average climbers, it takes about 4 hours to reach Camp 1, with the first hour of climbing on the moraine taking approximately an hour, followed by a 3-hour glacier climb. Lower Camp 1 and Upper Base 1 are divided by a fence.
The climb from Camp 1 to Camp 2, located at an elevation of 6400m/21,000ft, is the most challenging section of the route. This section takes you to the icefall's heart, where you'll encounter steep sections of ice, two ladder crossings, and steep snow climbing. For most people, Camp 2 is the most challenging part of the route, located above the icefall on a snowy terrace. It takes approximately 5 hours to complete this section, with several steep ice sections measuring 100m with a slope of 65o.
Camp 3, situated at an elevation of 6800m/22,310ft, is the shortest distance from Camp 2, making it the shortest climbing day. There are no ladder crossings required, but there are a few half-meter crevasses that must be jumped. Climbing Sherpa's team fixes the main ropes. Climbing is still on supported slopes, with exposure to cold and wind. Despite it being spring, there have been reports of direct sunlight hitting this segment, making it feel hot.
Camp 4, located at an elevation of 7500m/24,606ft, feels like a long day's climb from Camp 3, despite being only a short distance away from the death zone. Any effort, no matter how small, will feel arduous due to low oxygen levels at this altitude. Climbing this section requires a 3-4 hour climb on steep snow on a 50-55o slope. This section is hazardous due to the snow slope covering a layer of ice, making the ethos section prone to avalanches. In comparison to other sections, this section of the route is physically demanding, with sustained steep snow sections at extreme altitudes in avalanche terrain.
The summit day is the main goal of the climbing period. A false summit lies beneath the central panel, with the leading conference accessible via an exposed ridge. It takes approximately 4 hours to return from the meeting to Camp 4 and another 2 hours to Camp 3 for an overnight stay. The climb starts by ascending through several basins with short snow headwalls before bypassing the false summit and concluding on an exposed ridge with a spectacular view of the Himalayas. Our guides will repair ropes, clear trails, and do everything possible to help the
Cost Include
Excludes
Outline Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival and Hotel Transfer in Kathmandu.
Day 2: At leisure in Kathmandu and briefing and Preparing.
Day 3: Drive from Kathmandu to Soti Khola (712m).
Day 4: Trek from Sati Khola to Machha Khola (883m).
Day 5: Trek from Machha Khola to Jagat (1,415m).
Day 6: Trek from Jagat to Philim (1,606m).
Day 7: Trek from Philim to Ghap (3.200m).
Day 8: Trek from Ghap to Namrung (2,670m).
Day 9: Trek from Namrung to Shya (3,530m).
Day 10: Trek from Shya to Sama Gaon (3,541m).
Day 11: Acclimatization day at Samagaon (3,541m).
Day 12: Trek from Sama Gaon to Samdo (3,872m).
Day 13: Acclimatization and walk up and down to ABC (4,750m).
Day 14: Final move to ABC for Camping (4,750m).
Day 15-35: Manaslu Summit Climbing Period
Day 36: Return trek to Samagoan from ABC after cleaning up the Camp.
Day 37: Fly To Kathmandubyn Helicopter
Day 38: Free Day
Day 39: Free Day
Day 40: Departure
Amigo Treks and Expedition has compiled a list of essential equipment, personal medical provisions, and summary of medical conditions likely to encounter during 8000m mountaineering expeditions to help mountaineers in preparation and provisioning for climbing or mountaineering expedition.
This list should be considered as an essential summary and expeditioners embarking on the adventure are encouraged to conduct further study and practical exercises to familiarize themselves with the equipment, medical terminology and understanding of medical conditions related to high elevation, cold, wind, excessive sun radiation as well as injuries likely to sustain in the outdoor situation and in particular high and remote mountainous areas.
Essential Personal Climbing Gear:
Clothing
For under garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilises the best quality material in the world. No other company can at this stage match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breath-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm. Due to its natural nano-tube construction it has antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is climbing and trekking.
Upper Body:
Hands:
Heads:
Lower Body:
Feet:
Travel and Sleeping Gear
Rucksacks and Travel Bags:
Sleeping Gear:
Medical
Personal Hygiene:
Medical Supplies:
Personal Food
Our skilful cooks will prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in base camp, as well as in camp 2 on the mountain. This meals will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our Sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
We ask only members to bring 5 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. On summit day you will be at high elevation and you will be affected by the altitude with very limited appetite and for period so it is important to have flavours you most likely will consume.
We cannot cater for specific personal and uncommon foods and flavours. If you have any unusual, non-standard or specific personal, cultural or religious dietary requirements, which can only be satisfied with imported product, we ask you to bring your own imported daily snack and energy foods.
We do not provide “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food in Kathmandu or in home country. From our experience 3-6 kilos/6-12 pounds is a sufficient amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported brands of power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage may not be available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows sufficient time for shopping.
Miscellaneous Practical Items:
Oxygen
On Everest, although some climbers wish to try to summit it without supplemental oxygen, most of members would prefer to have oxygen available. We only allow members to climb Everest with the supplemental oxygen available. How much oxygen one requires is an individual decision; some people want 1 bottle, others want 12; our only requirement is that every expedition team member must have at least one oxygen bottle available for personal use, which will constitute at the minimum an emergency supply for climber to get down to at least camp 4. Our experience indicates five oxygen bottles is usually a sufficient for average climber. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 40% buy back policy on unused oxygen bottles, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition.
Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the groups sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.
Even though climbing Manaslu and Everest is difficult, comparing the two peaks' degrees of difficulty is debatable. The climbing route, altitude, weather, the climber's experience, and skill level are just a few of the variables that affect a climb's difficulty level. Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world, making it a more difficult climb due to its greater height compared to Mount Manaslu.
Both peaks, however, demand technical climbing abilities and carry a high risk of avalanches, falls, and altitude sickness. In the end, a climber's experience and level of preparation determine how challenging it will be, so Manaslu and Everest should both be treated with respect and caution.
The cost of climbing Manaslu can vary depending on several factors, such as the route chosen, the duration of the expedition, and the number of support staff required.
Additionally, the cost can differ depending on whether a climber chooses to climb with a fully guided expedition.
On average, the cost of a guided expedition to climb Manaslu can range from $12,000 to $30,000 per person, with the cost covering necessary permits, equipment, food, accommodations, and support staff. However, the cost can increase if additional services, such as helicopter rescues or additional days on the mountain, are required.
The duration of a Manaslu climb can vary depending on several factors, such as the route chosen, the climber's experience and skill level, and weather conditions.
Typically, a guided expedition to climb Manaslu takes around 35–40 days to complete. This timeframe includes acclimatization periods, establishing camps, and summit attempts. However, the duration can vary depending on individual acclimatization rates and weather conditions.
It's important to note that climbers must take the necessary time to acclimate to the high altitude and avoid altitude sickness, which can be life-threatening. Rushing through the acclimatization process can significantly increase the risk of altitude sickness and jeopardize the entire expedition. Therefore, climbers must approach the climb with patience and respect for the mountain's challenging conditions.
Yes, Manaslu is considered a difficult mountain to climb, and the climb requires advanced mountaineering skills, experience, and physical fitness. Climbers must be able to navigate steep slopes, crevasses, and difficult terrain while carrying heavy loads at high altitudes.
In addition to the technical difficulties, the high altitude and unpredictable weather conditions can pose significant challenges. Climbers must take the necessary time to acclimate to the high altitude to avoid altitude sickness, which can be life-threatening. Additionally, weather conditions can change rapidly, and climbers must be prepared to navigate through strong winds, snowstorms, and extreme cold temperatures.
Therefore, climbing Manaslu requires significant preparation, training, and experience. Climbers should approach the climb with caution and respect for the mountain's challenging conditions, taking the necessary precautions to minimize risks and ensure a safe and successful expedition.
Since the first ascent of Manaslu in 1956, there have been over 3300 successful ascents of the mountain as of 2022. However, the exact number of climbers who have summited Manaslu is difficult to determine due to the lack of reliable record-keeping in the early years of climbing on the mountain.
Manaslu is a popular peak among experienced mountaineers, and the number of climbers attempting the peak has been increasing in recent years. However, compared to other high peaks in the region such as Everest and Cho Oyu, the number of climbers attempting Manaslu is relatively lower, making for a more remote and less crowded climbing experience.
Numerous climbers from all over the world have successfully climbed Manaslu since the first ascent in 1956.
The first ascent of Manaslu was completed on May 9, 1956, by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition team.
Since then, several famous mountaineers, including Reinhold Messner, Carlos Carsolio, Krzysztof Wielicki, and Simone Moro, have also climbed Manaslu.
In addition to these notable climbers, many other experienced mountaineers have also successfully summited Manaslu over the years, including individuals and teams from various countries and regions worldwide.
Climbing Manaslu requires advanced mountaineering skills, experience, and physical fitness, and climbers must undergo significant training and preparation before attempting the climb. The mountain remains a popular and challenging peak for experienced climbers seeking an adventurous and remote climbing experience.
Climbing Manaslu is a demanding and technical expedition, and climbers need specialized mountaineering equipment to navigate the steep slopes, high altitude, and challenging terrain. Some of the essential equipment required for a Manaslu expedition includes the following:
Mountaineering boots: sturdy and waterproof mountaineering boots with insulation for cold temperatures and crampon-compatible soles.
Crampons: Attachable metal spikes that provide traction on ice and snow.
Ice Axe: A long-handled axe used for balance, stability, and arresting falls.
Harness: A safety harness that connects the climber to ropes or anchors.
Ropes: Climbing ropes are used to provide security while ascending and descending steep slopes.
Carabiners: A metal clip used to attach ropes and equipment to the harness
Helmet: A protective helmet to protect the head from falling debris or accidents.
High altitude clothing: thick, insulated layers, including a down jacket, pants, gloves, and a hat, to protect against cold temperatures and wind chill.
Sunglasses: To protect the eyes from harsh sunlight and snow glare.
Backpack: A large, sturdy backpack to carry climbing equipment, food, and water.
Sleeping bag: a warm sleeping bag suitable for sub-zero temperatures.
First aid kit: a comprehensive first aid kit with essential supplies
The Manaslu Expedition is a challenging climb, and climbers must ensure that they have the necessary equipment and gear to ensure their safety and success on the mountain. Additionally, climbers must undergo proper training and preparation to use the equipment effectively in the challenging conditions on Manaslu.
No, you cannot ascend Mount Manaslu by yourself. According to Nepalese government regulations, climbers must be a part of a planned expedition team and be accompanied by a certified guide to ascend Mount Manaslu. Additionally, in order to climb the mountain, climbers need a special permit issued by the government of Nepal. The rules are in place to protect climbers' safety and wellbeing as well as to lessen their negative effects on the environment and nearby communities. The certified guides are experienced professionals who support, direct, and help you along the way while also managing any unforeseen circumstances. Therefore, it is crucial to follow the rules and regulations in place and join an expedition team that is being led in order to climb Mount Manaslu.
With 3 friends we trek up the Tsum Valley supported by our guide Dawa and porters Shambu and Anil… a fantastic trip. Beautiful, fascinating,
