Lhotse Expedition

   58 Days    Trip Id (001-A-138)

Lhotse, a peak 3 kms south of Mt. Everest, in fact a part of the Everest massif, separated by the South Col, is the 4th highest (8,516m) peak in the world. According to Tibetan language, Lhotse means ‘ South Peak’. Situated on the border,  between Tibet and the Khumbu region of Nepal the peak was first climbed on May 18, 1956 by the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Frituz Luchsinger. Lhotse is well-known for its remarkable south face, the place that has been the site of failed attempts and some notable fatalities. Probably because of this and the extremely difficult climb, the peak is rarely attempted.

The Lhotse Expedition: Typically 48 days is required to complete the expedition, in which 39 days are set aside for climbing. The expedition starts with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, from where we trek all the way up to the Everest Base Camp (Mt Lhotse and Mt. Everest share the same base camp) beside the Khumbu glacier; enjoying the beautiful Sherpa villages, culture and their hospitality. Lhotse expedition not just shares the base camp with Everest expedition, but also the length up till the south col, on the way to Everest’s Camp 4. The climb from the base camp to camp I (at 6,400m) is via Khumbu Icefall, which is the most dangerous section of the climb due to the presence of large crevasses, deceptive uneven seracs and high objective danger of falling ice. Once past the Khumbu Icefall, although the route is technically demanding, it poses less objective danger. The first camp is located on top of the Khumbu Icefall. Camp II (at 6,752m) is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of the west ridge. The view of Lhotse from this place is simply marvelous. However, one needs to fight flat glaciers and crevasses before one can enjoy this view.  Camp III (7,100m) is located on a small ledge on the Lhotse wall. The climb from camp 2 to camp 3 is first across the glacier and then about 600m on the compact snow field. Camp IV (at 7,850m) located near the south col is the last camp. Camp 4 from camp 3 is through the two rock sections: the Yellow Bands and Geneva Spur, with the help of fixed ropes. From camp 4 the final push towards the summit is on a steep narrow gully along a mix of packed snow, ice and some rock. The surrounding view from the top is very much rewarding.

Amigo Treks and Expedition is dedicated to providing comprehensive service required for the successful climb. Full board (meal and accommodation), necessary transportation, experienced mountaineers, guide and crew members having the knowledge of wilderness medical training, permanent base camp, experienced expedition cooks and managers, solar electricity, internet facility, satellite phone, professional, reliable weather forecast service are just to mention a few. Accommodation during the trek will be arranged in the lodges and tents during the climb. The itinerary prepared by us also ensures the required acclimatization. The entire Lhotse Expedition package is available at a very competitive rate.

Late spring and autumn are the perfect time to plan this expedition. Moreover, we also request you to be ready for the possible obstructions like altitude sickness and unpredictable mountain weather. Nevertheless, we also make the best arrangements for other expeditions like the the Manaslu Expedition, the Makalu Expedition, Dhaulagiri Expedition and many more.


Cost Include

  • Arrival and departure transfers by private car
  • Accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast (4*deluxe)
  • Welcome and farewell dinner in Kathmandu
  • One day guided city tour in Kathmandu valley
  • Kathmandu to lukla and return air tickets
  • All meals (Lunch/Dinner/Breakfast) during the trek
  • Accommodation (Lodge/Guest House) while on a trek
  • Trekking Permits and TIMS permits for the trek
  • Trekking guide during the trek and climbing Sherpa while climbing
  • Required porters and yak to carry luggage and other essentials supplies
  • Special climbing permits and its procedure
  • Garbage deposit fees
  • All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs during the trip
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication with company staff and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during climbing period.
  • Gamow Bags and Oxygen
     

Excludes

  • Nepal arrival visa fees
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Monument entrance fees while on Kathmandu tour only
  • All snacks, energy drinks, mineral water, cigarettes, packed food
  • Personal nature items, Laundry Expenses, Tips
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phone And Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees or Trekking Gears
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required
  • Personal climbing gears

 

Outline Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to Hotel
Day 02: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing
Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla(2840m) and trek to Phakding (approx 4hrs walk)
Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar(3440m approx 7hrs walk )
Day 05: Acclimatization day
Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche(3860m approx 5 hrs walk)
Day 07: Trek from Tyangboche to Pheriche / dingboche (4250m approx 5 hrs walk)
Day 08: Trek from Pheriche / dingboche to Lobuche (5018m approx 4hrs walk)
Day 09: Lobuche rest day for acclimatization
Day 10: Trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5170m approx 3 hrs walk) and rest
Day 11: Trek from Gorakshep to Lhotse Base camp (5200m) which takes about two hours
Day 12-51: Climbing period (summit period for Lhotse)
Day 52: Trek from Base Camp (5218)to Dingboche(4260m approx 4hrs walk)
Day 53: Trek from Dingboche to Tengboche (3860M approx 4 hrs walk)
Day 54: Trek from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar(3440m approx 4hrs walk)
Day 55: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla(2840m approx 7hrs walk)
Day 56: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu Transfer to hotel
Day 57: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 58: Final departure

Personal Climbing Equipments

Amigo Treks and Expedition has compiled a list of essential equipment, personal medical provisions, and summary of medical conditions likely to encounter during 8000m mountaineering expeditions to help mountaineers in preparation and provisioning for climbing or mountaineering expedition.

This list should be considered as an essential summary and expeditioners embarking on the adventure are encouraged to conduct further study and practical exercises to familiarize themselves with the equipment, medical terminology and understanding of medical conditions related to high elevation, cold, wind, excessive sun radiation as well as injuries likely to sustain in the outdoor situation and in particular high and remote mountainous areas.

Essential Personal Climbing Gear:

  • Alpine Climbing Harness: Alpine Climbing Harness should be light and simple in design, easy to put on and take off with gloves on, with positively foolproof locking features.
  • Crampons: Crampons must fit boots perfectly; steel crampons with anti-balling and ability to toe point positively and safely into ice.
  • Ice axe: Ice axe should be versatile light general purpose ice climbing axe not too aggressive.
  • Ascender: Ascender or Jamar, a mechanical device used for ascending on a rope; must be suitable to be used with gloves or mittens.
  • Multi-LED Head Lamp: Multi-LED Head Lamp and spare batteries are essential items, we do not recommend single bulb lights due to its low reliability and a single point of failure.
  • Karabiners: Minimum 2 locking carabineers, 1 large and 1 small and 4 regular.
  • Rappel device: Figure 8, ACT or similar; be familiar with Munter Hitch as it may safe your life if you loose your Rappel device and you will at some stage
  • Ski poles: Very handy for the approach; adjustable types are the best and are recommended type
  • Slings: One 3m (10ft) and three 2m (6ft).
  • Masks, hoses, and regulators: Good quality for your safety.
  • Altimeter :
  • Climbing helmet: Climbing helmet is essential safety gear for crossing areas under rocks and ice cliffs; light weight is an essential feature

Clothing

For under garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilises the best quality material in the world. No other company can at this stage match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breath-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm. Due to its natural nano-tube construction it has antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is climbing and trekking.

Upper Body:

  • One T-shirt Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200.
  • Two long Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 shirts.
  • One polar fleece pullovers, medium weight.
  • One polar fleece jacket.
  • One Gore-Tex waterproof and breathable jacket with large hood to accommodate climbing helmet.
  • Lightweight down jacket for chilly days in base camp or warm layer when stopping for short breaks.
  • One very warm goose-down (duvet) jacket with hood or a down/duvet suit if you prefer, for high altitude use.
  • Note: Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.

Hands:

  • One pair lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but not inside your mitts
  • One pair mittens, consists of 1 Goretex over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner

Heads:

  • Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears
  • Balaclava
  • Scarf or neck sleeve
  • Face mask
  • Ball cap or brimmed sun cap
  • Glacier Sunglass with side shields
  • One pair ski goggles (optional with light and dark lens)
  • Bandana or head scarf, useful for dusty conditions

Lower Body:

  • Icebreaker Merino 150 underwear briefs
  • One pair walking shorts
  • One pair walking trousers for trekking and around camp
  • Two pair Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 thermal bottoms
  • One pair Icebreaker Merino 200 weight thermal bottoms
  • One pair polar fleece trousers
  • One pair Gore-Tex trousers or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips
  • One pair of Goose-down (duvet) trousers or bibs. You may prefer a down (duvet)
  • Note: Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.

Feet:

  • One pair One-Sport Millet Everest Overboots or equivalent (with Aveolite liners; good quality plastic shells with inner boots; avoid tight fit with heavy socks.)
  • One pair sturdy leather or synthetic (Gortex) hiking boots with good ankle support for the walk to advanced base camp
  • One pair cross-trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp
  • One pair down booties (optional)
  • Two pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
  • Two Pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool
  • Vapour barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags
  • Two pair lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool
  • Light Icebreaker Merino wool or cotton socks for in town.

Travel and Sleeping Gear

Rucksacks and Travel Bags:

  • One medium rucksack (50-70 litters / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used for airplane carry).
  • Two large (120 L / 7500 cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment. Must be durable for use on pack animals.
  • Small padlocks for duffel kit bags.

Sleeping Gear:

  • For high altitude, one down (duvet) sleeping bag (rated to –35 C (-30 F). In the high camp, you can sleep in your down (duvet) clothing inside your sleeping bag;.
  • For base camp, one additional sleeping bag (good to -20 C (-5 F).
  • At least 3 closed cell foam mats for use in base camp and high altitude, which can be purchased in Kathmandu inexpensively; we do not recommend inflatable mats due to high probability of accidental puncture.
  • Note: Your sleeping bags should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags

Medical

Personal Hygiene:

  • Personal hygiene supplies;
  • Two tubes lip sun cream, 1 large tube skin sun cream (min. factor 30);
  • Anti-mosquito cream;
  • One toothpaste/brush set;
  • One bar soap or hand sanitizer gel/1 small synthetic towel;
  • Hand wipes.

Medical Supplies:

  • Note: Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc. The leaders will have extensive first-aid kits,
  • Personal prescription medications. Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb.
  • One skin blister repair kit.
  • medications are inexpensive and readily available in Kathmandu with no doctor's prescription;.
  • One small bottle of anti-diarrhea pills (Imodium).
  • One small bottle of anti-headache pills.
  • One small bottle cough and/or cold medicine.
  • One course antibiotics for stomach infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor's prescription.
  • One course antibiotics for chest infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor's prescription.
  • One small bottle anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide. For more about this medication, please contact us.
  • Do not bring sleeping pills. They are a respiratory depressant non compatible with high altitude physiology.
  • One small bottle of water purification tablets or water filter.
  • Earplugs.
  • Extra prescription glasses/contact lens. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency.

Personal Food

Our skilful cooks will prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in base camp, as well as in camp 2 on the mountain. This meals will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our Sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.

We ask only members to bring 5 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. On summit day you will be at high elevation and you will be affected by the altitude with very limited appetite and for period so it is important to have flavours you most likely will consume.

We cannot cater for specific personal and uncommon foods and flavours. If you have any unusual, non-standard or specific personal, cultural or religious dietary requirements, which can only be satisfied with imported product, we ask you to bring your own imported daily snack and energy foods.

We do not provide “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food in Kathmandu or in home country. From our experience 3-6 kilos/6-12 pounds is a sufficient amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported brands of power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage may not be available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows sufficient time for shopping.

Miscellaneous Practical Items:

  • 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit;
  • 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box matches;
  • 1 compass or GPS;
  • 1 battery powered alarm clock/watch;
  • 1 digital camera with extra cards and extra batteries;
  • Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are also useful;
  • 3 Water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle)
  • 1 plastic cup and spoon;
  • 1 small folding knife;
  • Binoculars (optional);
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks;
  • Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary;
  • Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance;
  • dollars, pounds or euros cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport, Tibet visa, for paying for restaurants and hotels, for gratuities, snacks, and to purchase your own drinks and gifts;
  • Credit cards, Bank/ATM/Cash machine cards for use for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards), traveler's checks, etc.
  • 1 bathing suit/swimming costume (you never know);
  • Base camp entertainment. It is good to bring additional items which you have found to be useful on previous expeditions. For example: paperback books, playing cards, ipod mp3 player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical instruments, ear plugs, lots of batteries, etc.;
  • travel clothes for base camp and in town;
  • Please be sure and bring your patience and try to keep an open, relaxed, positive and friendly attitude as travelling in this part of the world may be very different than what you are used to, but things always seem to fall into place at the last moment.
  • Note: This is not an exhaustive list. Please submit other equipment concerns and suggestions.

Oxygen

On Everest, although some climbers wish to try to summit it without supplemental oxygen, most of members would prefer to have oxygen available. We only allow members to climb Everest with the supplemental oxygen available. How much oxygen one requires is an individual decision; some people want 1 bottle, others want 12; our only requirement is that every expedition team member must have at least one oxygen bottle available for personal use, which will constitute at the minimum an emergency supply for climber to get down to at least camp 4. Our experience indicates five oxygen bottles is usually a sufficient for average climber. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 40% buy back policy on unused oxygen bottles, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition.
 

Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the groups sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.

 

Who can climb a peak?

There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.

I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.

What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.

What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association authorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.

Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.

Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.

Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.

Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.

Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.

What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.

How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaks require one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.

How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.

Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?

What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.

Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.

Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.

What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.

What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.

What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.

What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.

What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.

 

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Why Amigo?

Amigo Treks & Expedition is Nepal based local company which is located in Thamel (a downtown) nearby major tourist attractions, hotels and restaurants as well as major shops for the trekking & mountaineering and many more. All our Guides, Porters, Sherpas and Leaders are locals and have many years of practical experience.

Amigo Treks & Expedition is Government registered company and associates with tourism related bodies of Nepal so that we are fully authorized and licensed. Since we do require minimum advance deposit of the total price as it would enable us to reserve accommodations, transportation and flights for this trip. Thus financially you are 100% safe.

Amigo Treks & Expedition entire team is very much professional and dedicated towards our duty. We offer personal and professional services to deliver the best memorable adventure of lifetime. While you are with us we are always with you (until you want free time on request) and always attention towards our duty.

Since you are in contact with us we are always available and happy to help you. From the arrival time at the airport to the departure we are available so that you do not have to worry about the things. While you are on a tour our driver/guide will be there to assist you. When you are on the himalayas for the adventure treks or expedition you are always with professional team and available when you need us for urgent assistance.

When you contact Amigo Treks for your adventure and cultural holidays we are 24 hour online so that our response will be very fast. From the beginning of booking your any trips with us to the information of the requested and interested trip we are happy to reply you. Whenever you need us online you would see us.

Our every local Guides and leaders are very professional and have deep knowledge of the region that we take. Our leaders are well educated and trained has loads of information about the culture and religion, history and architecture and many more that relates our each and every trips. While you are on a trip with us we are always with you and presence every time during our trips from beginning to the end.

We have priced all our trips very carefully and professionally to ensure the best price. As per our value offered services our prices are very competitive. Within our offered price we provide the best services to our valued clients. Our business is your satisfaction

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