Lhotse, a peak 3 km south of Mt. Everest, in fact, a part of the Everest massif, separated by the South Col, is the 4th highest (8,516m) peak in the world. According to the Tibetan language, Lhotse means ‘ South Peak’. Situated on the border, between Tibet and the Khumbu region of Nepal the peak was first climbed on May 18, 1956, by the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger. Lhotse is well-known for its remarkable south face, the place that has been the site of failed attempts and some notable fatalities. Probably because of this and the extremely difficult climb, the peak is rarely attempted.
The Lhotse Expedition: Typically 48 days are required to complete the expedition, in which 39 days are set aside for climbing. The expedition starts with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, from where we trek up to the Everest Base Camp (Mt Lhotse and Mt. Everest share the same base camp) beside the Khumbu glacier; enjoying the beautiful Sherpa villages, culture, and hospitality. Lhotse expedition not just shares the base camp with Everest expedition, but also the length up till the south col, on the way to Everest’s Camp 4. The climb from the base camp to camp I (at 6,400m) is via Khumbu Icefall, which is the most dangerous section of the climb due to the presence of large crevasses, deceptive uneven seracs, and high objective danger of falling ice. Once past the Khumbu Icefall, although the route is technically demanding, it poses a less objective danger.
The first camp is located on top of the Khumbu Icefall. Camp II (at 6,752m) is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of the west ridge. The view of Lhotse from this place is simply marvelous. However, one needs to fight flat glaciers and crevasses before one can enjoy this view. Camp III (7,100m) is located on a small ledge on the Lhotse wall. The climb from camp 2 to camp 3 is first across the glacier and then about 600m on the compact snowfield. Camp IV (at 7,850m) located near the south col is the last camp. Camp 4 from camp 3 is through the two rock sections: the Yellow Bands and Geneva Spur, with the help of fixed ropes. From camp 4 the final push towards the summit is on a steep narrow gully along with a mix of packed snow, ice, and some rock. The surrounding view from the top is very much rewarding.
Amigo Treks and Expedition is dedicated to providing the comprehensive service required for a successful climb. Full board (meal and accommodation), necessary transportation, experienced mountaineers, guide and crew members know wilderness medical training, permanent base camp, experienced expedition cooks and managers, solar electricity, internet facility, satellite phone, professional, reliable weather forecast service are just to mention a few. Accommodation during the trek will be arranged in the lodges and tents during the climb. The itinerary prepared by us also ensures the required acclimatization. The entire Lhotse Expedition package is available at a very competitive rate.
Late spring and autumn are the perfect time to plan this expedition. Moreover, we also request you to be ready for possible obstructions like altitude sickness and unpredictable mountain weather. Nevertheless, we also make the best arrangements for other expeditions like the Manaslu Expedition, the Makalu Expedition, Dhaulagiri Expedition, and many more.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to Hotel
Day 02: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing
Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla(2840m) and trek to Phakding (approx 4hrs walk)
Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar(3440m approx 7hrs walk )
Day 05: Acclimatization day
Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche(3860m approx 5 hrs walk)
Day 07: Trek from Tyangboche to Pheriche / dingboche (4250m approx 5 hrs walk)
Day 08: Trek from Pheriche / dingboche to Lobuche (5018m approx 4hrs walk)
Day 09: Lobuche rest day for acclimatization
Day 10: Trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5170m approx 3 hrs walk) and rest
Day 11: Trek from Gorakshep to Lhotse Base camp (5200m) which takes about two hours
Day 12-51: Climbing period (summit period for Lhotse)
Day 52: Trek from Base Camp (5218)to Dingboche(4260m approx 4hrs walk)
Day 53: Trek from Dingboche to Tengboche (3860M approx 4 hrs walk)
Day 54: Trek from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar(3440m approx 4hrs walk)
Day 55: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla(2840m approx 7hrs walk)
Day 56: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu Transfer to hotel
Day 57: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 58: Final departure
Amigo Treks and Expedition has compiled a list of essential equipment, personal medical provisions, and summary of medical conditions likely to encounter during 8000m mountaineering expeditions to help mountaineers in preparation and provisioning for climbing or mountaineering expedition.
This list should be considered as an essential summary and expeditioners embarking on the adventure are encouraged to conduct further study and practical exercises to familiarize themselves with the equipment, medical terminology and understanding of medical conditions related to high elevation, cold, wind, excessive sun radiation as well as injuries likely to sustain in the outdoor situation and in particular high and remote mountainous areas.
Essential Personal Climbing Gear:
For under garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilises the best quality material in the world. No other company can at this stage match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breath-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm. Due to its natural nano-tube construction it has antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is climbing and trekking.
Travel and Sleeping Gear
Rucksacks and Travel Bags:
Our skilful cooks will prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in base camp, as well as in camp 2 on the mountain. This meals will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our Sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
We ask only members to bring 5 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. On summit day you will be at high elevation and you will be affected by the altitude with very limited appetite and for period so it is important to have flavours you most likely will consume.
We cannot cater for specific personal and uncommon foods and flavours. If you have any unusual, non-standard or specific personal, cultural or religious dietary requirements, which can only be satisfied with imported product, we ask you to bring your own imported daily snack and energy foods.
We do not provide “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food in Kathmandu or in home country. From our experience 3-6 kilos/6-12 pounds is a sufficient amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported brands of power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage may not be available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows sufficient time for shopping.
Miscellaneous Practical Items:
On Everest, although some climbers wish to try to summit it without supplemental oxygen, most of members would prefer to have oxygen available. We only allow members to climb Everest with the supplemental oxygen available. How much oxygen one requires is an individual decision; some people want 1 bottle, others want 12; our only requirement is that every expedition team member must have at least one oxygen bottle available for personal use, which will constitute at the minimum an emergency supply for climber to get down to at least camp 4. Our experience indicates five oxygen bottles is usually a sufficient for average climber. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 40% buy back policy on unused oxygen bottles, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition.
Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the groups sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.
Who can climb a peak?
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.
I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.
What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.
What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association authorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.
Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.
Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.
Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.
Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.
What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.
How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaks require one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.
How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.
Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?
What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.
Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.
What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.
What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.
What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.
We used Amigo Treks for our trek to EBC in Sept-Oct 2021. The planning started in Mar-April 2021 in the middle of the pandemic so